GQ made the point that the double-breasted suit is appropriate to any situation where you would normally wear its single-breasted counterpart – be it to the office, a dinner date or for after-work drinks. Mr Porter endorsed this approach by including a feature on their website showcasing the double-breasted blazer and insisting that it can be worn at almost any occasion, including a gallery opening, birthday lunch or summer party.
Despite this, there’s no getting away from the fact that a double-breasted jacket naturally stands out more than its single-breasted counterpart and is designed to make a confident statement. If you want to add one to your wardrobe, bear in mind the following guidelines:
- Button Choice: Six buttons are best for suiting and structured blazers while two/four button jackets are more appropriate for smart-casual use and dressing down. Four button styles are also a great choice for shorter gents, helping balance their proportions.
- Peak Lapels: A double-breasted jacket is a larger than life piece and therefore the details should match. With this in mind, opt for peak lapels over notched. These will not only create the illusion of a wider chest but also draw the eyes upward to give the appearance of height.
- The Cut: Double-breasted jackets can be worn by all body types, so long as you keep the fit tailored at the waist. In addition, high armholes and slimmer sleeves will help produce a more contemporary silhouette that suits all builds.
- Jacket Length: The length of a double-breasted jacket should be shorter than a standard suit blazer. This helps elongate the body by revealing more of your legs.
- Buttoning Up: You should always fasten the top button of a four or six button jacket, leaving the bottom button undone. There is no need to unbutton your jacket when you sit down, like you would a single-breasted style.
- Keep It Simple: As previously mentioned, this type of cut makes a statement on its own, so there’s no need to go overboard with your styling. Combine with classic shirt and tie combinations or neutral wardrobe staples to let the jacket do all the talking. Likewise, if this is your first foray into double-breasted, steer clear of patterned or bold coloured designs.
Of course, as with anything in men’s fashion, the most important thing is to get the fit right – perhaps even more so with double-breasted. Get your tailor to alter the jacket to your specific body shape in order to avoid any association with the outdated, boxy aesthetic of the past.
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