Dressing For The Occasion: Black Tie – Part Two
Last time, Shane took us through the first element to a Dinner Suit – the Jacket, and now we move on to it’s accompaniment:
The traditional black tie trouser was high-waisted and crafted from dense barathea wool, with a pleated front and brace buttons to keep the trousers firmly in place during wear. They were finished with a braided grosgrain stripe at the sides, which had more of a matte finish than the lustrous satin stripes seen on modern black tie trousers.
The fit was also much wider than the trousers of today, to aid freedom of movement for men expected to break out the dance moves after dinner. Whilst this style of trouser has largely fallen out of favour, there are labels that produce styles very close to this traditional design, updated with a slightly slimmer cut.
The high-waisted trouser is particularly useful if you wish to include a waistcoat in your outfit, as the untidy waistband of the trousers will sit neatly concealed behind the waistcoat.
For those of a more contemporary mindset, the slim-leg dinner trouser is a popular option. The only resemblance these trousers have to the traditional high-waisted style is the silk or satin stripe running down the sides. Some brands even incorporate a silk waistband into their designs, which is intended to bring a clean finish to the look in the absence of a cummerbund, which many men choose to forgo nowadays.
Trousers should always be black and crafted from a wool-rich cloth. Velvet and other fabrics should be avoided for leg wear as they will cheapen and befuddle the clean-cut feel of a black tie ensemble.
The labels suggested for jackets are also good ports of call for trousers, as your entire dinner suit should be bought from the same designer to ensure consistency in terms of colour, fabric and cut:
- MOSS BROS REGULAR FIT FLAT FRONT DINNER SUIT TROUSER BLACK
- LUDLOW CLASSIC TUXEDO PANT IN ITALIAN WOOL
- DANIEL HECHTER WOOL FLAT FRONT DINNER SUIT TROUSERS BLACK
- CHESTER BARRIE SAVILE ROW DRESS SUIT TROUSERS BLACK
- TED BAKER OWLZ WOOL TUXEDO TROUSERS BLACK
- JOHN LEWIS SLIM FIT DRESS SUIT TROUSERS BLACK
- DOLCE & GABBANA TAPERED SATIN-TRIMMED WOOL-BLEND TUXEDO TROUSERS
- AMI SLIM-FIT WOOL TROUSERS
- CHARLES TYRWHITT SLIM FIT DINNER SUIT TROUSERS